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Perms

- Chemical re-texturizing services (also known as a hair perm and hair relaxer) chemically change the natural wave patterns in the hair.

- Re-texturizing services can curl and add volume to straight hair making straight hair easier to work with. It also straightens curly hair.

- Even though the chemical re-texturizing services use different chemicals for different services, they all involve chemical and physical changes in the structure of the hair.

During Your Consultation

- this is the time you can ask all your questions

- show hair photos of what you want

- let your hairstylist know of any chemical services (color or re-texturizing) you’ve had in the past

- make sure the haircut you want will work well with the new texture

- before getting your re-texturizing service you should know these things about your hair to help you better understand more about the analysis of your hair

Hair Texture

coarse – resistant, processing usually takes longer than medium to fine hair

medium – most common hair texture usually doesn’t have any added problems

fine – fragile, processes easily and is susceptible to problems

Hair Density

Measures the number of strands of hair on the head… (which tells you whether you've got thick hair or thin hair)

Hair Porosity

The ability of the hair to absorb moisture- classified as resistant, normal or porous as well

Hair Elasticity - the indication of the strength of the hair

- determines the ability to hold a curl- classified as normal or low normal

- when wet can stretch up to 50% of it’s original length and can return without breaking (also known to hold a curl very well)

- low - when wet doesn’t return to the original length after being stretched (doesn’t hold a curl that well)

The Perm Process

- in this process, the size, shape and type of curl are determined by the size, shape and type of tool used in wrapping the perm

- when the perm solution is applied it simply softens the hair allowing it to conform to the shape of the rod

- the size of the rod determines the size of the curl - small rods give a small curl

- large rods give a large curl

**** Perm Neutralization - stops the action of the solution and hardens the hair in its new form

**** Wrapping the Perm - there are 2 basic methods of wrapping

- croquignole – basic perm wrapped from ends to scalp

- spiral – wrapped either way.. scalp to ends is the most popular and a spiral is usually used when you have 6 inches or more past the shoulders (unless your hair is past your shoulders you don’t need a spiral)

The Relaxing Process

- chemical hair relaxing rearranges the structure of extremely curly hair into straight form

- the two most common types of chemical relaxers are thio (ammonium thioglycolate) and hydroxide

- thio (ammonium thioglycolate) is the same reducing agent that is used in perms

Hydroxide Relaxers- hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers - sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and guanidine hydorixde are all hydroxide relaxers

Why is this important ??? All hydroxide relaxers are very strong !

(1) sodium hydroxide – lye relaxers are among the most common chemical relaxer- same chemical that’s used in drain cleaners and chemical hair depilatories

(2) lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide - advertised as “no-mix-no-lye” relaxers - even though there’s no lye, the chemistry is identical and there’s very little difference in performance

(3) guanidine hydroxide – no lye relaxer - hydroxide ion is still the active ingredient

- 2 components must be mixed prior to application

- great for sensitive skin and usually sold over the counter

- even though it’s great for sensitive scalps, they can still cause damage

- they’re also more drying

Low – PH Relaxers (for those with wavy to slightly curly hair)

- sulfites and bi-sulfites (used as low-ph hair relaxers)

- most commonly used are ammonium sulfite and ammonium bi-sulfites

- sulfites are known as mild alternatives

- they are compatible with thio (with the low ph) but not with the hydroxide relaxers

- do not completely straighten extremely curly hair

- low ph relaxers are ideal for color treated, damaged or fine hair

Relaxer Strengths

- there are 3 strengths: mild, regular and super

- the difference in strength is due to the amount of hydroxide in each

- mild: great for fine, color-treated or damaged hair

- regular: great for normal hair with a medium natural curl

- super: maximum strength for coarse and extremely curly hair

Always remember when you chemically re-texturizing your hair, use a base (such as vaseline) to protect your skin.

A word of advice is to do a strand test.